737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid

The least climbed of the 7 summits, 4,884m/16,023ft Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain in Australasia.

West Papua and Indonesia was leg number 5 of Richard's 737 Challenge, and what an unpredictable rollercoaster ride it was. Richard was about to hit the wall.  

Richard spent 6 days wading through the jungle, encountering waist high rivers, leaches, days and days of endless rain and trekking in wet clothes, just to get to base camp at the foot of Carstensz.

He then took on a sapping, technical rock climb to the summit.

Richard had to abandon his first summit attempt due to bad weather but reset the following day. A nerve-wracking Tyrolean traverse across the summit ridge was not for the faint hearted but Richard summited this mystical peak on 15th March 2011, and that was only the half it it.

After the down climb from the summit, it was time to trek all the way back through the jungle again, through the joys of swamps and rising rivers...exhausting work. Richard's knees were now a serious concern and causing a lot of pain. After 4 summits and 1 pole, he had hit a wall, but it was on to the North Pole leg next.

Richard also had his clothes stolen and porter strikes to deal with on this leg making it one of the most unpredictable and adventurous of the 7 summits! The infamous Carstensz casualty list included 1 pair of boots, 1 pair of gloves, 2 pairs of socks, 3 cameras including video camera, a jacket, a pair of trousers, Scarpa trainers, a trekking pole, oh and part of his sanity!

 

Latest Blog

737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 100 - Monday 21st Mar 2011

Hi Guys. Just got back to the hotel in Timika. We left the chief’s house at 4.30am this morning and caught the twin otter at 8am. First the breakfast buffet to try and put some weight back on! Then the pool to wash, as our room isn't ready till noon!…

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Latest Blog
  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 85 - Sunday 6th Mar 2011

    I arrived in Bali about 6am GMT. We are 8 hours ahead here. I didn't sleep a wink on the 17-hour journey, proper tired! But I did see some good films!

    Its mega hot here, humid and about 32 degrees! I met some of the team, from all over the world - Canada, New Zealand, Germany and France, there's 5 of us in total. My roommate lost his wife to breast cancer 3 years ago and is climbing Everest in support next year.

    I have had little rest this week. I haven't had a proper nights sleep since before summit day on Kili. Packing before I left was mega tough too, I had to pack a drum to send on to Everest base camp, a bag for the North Pole for my folks to meet me with in the hotel and another for my trek in to Everest base camp! My head hurts!!

    We leave at midnight today to fly Timika in Papua and maybe on to Sugapa where we should start the trek in to base camp from. We might have an overnight in a hotel before, will have wait and see!

    I am excited about climbing Carstensz though and the adventure that lies ahead.

    Here is my schedule so you know what is planned, subject to change as always!

    Day 1 - Arrive Denpasar (Bali) Exped briefing, gear checks etc and meet the team
    Day 2 – Fly to Timika in Papua. Onward flight to Sugapa or overnight in hotel
    Day 3 – Fixed wing flight to Sugapa (2100m)
    Day 4 – Meet Porters and prepare for trek
    Day 5 – Short day trekking down to river through villages to Suwamggwa (5 hrs)
    Day 6 – Trek through jungle, camp at 2200m (7 hrs)
    Day 7 – Trek through jungle, camp at 3200m (9 hrs)
    Day 8 – Trek through open meadows, camp at 3600m (6 hrs)
    Day 9 – Trek through open meadows, camp at foot of New Zealand Pass, 3700m (5 hrs)
    Day 10 – Climb up to Larson Lake and over New Zealand Pass (4400m) to Base Camp, 4250m (4 hrs). Rest afternoon and prepare for the climb to summit.
    Day 11 – Summit day, return to base camp
    Day 12 – Spare summit day or hike to Glacier near East Carstensz Peak
    Day 13 – Short day trekking out over New Zealand Pass, 3700m
    Day 14 – Trek through open meadows to camp near the jungle, 3200m (9 hrs)
    Day 15 – Trek through jungle (8 hrs)
    Day 16 – Trek to Sugapa (8 hrs)
    Day 17 – Fly to Timika
    Day 18 – Flight back to Bali.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 85 - Sunday 6th Mar 2011

    Hi Guys

    I am in West Papua! The tiny airport of Timika was mega busy today as all the mine employees that would have been transported to the mine by vehicle can’t because all the roads have been washed out by rain! It’s mega hot, about 20 degrees, 90% humidity and it’s only 7.30am!

    Thanks for all your suggestions of luxury items, once again the Pickled Onion Monster Munch nearly made it and I loved reading all the suggestions on Twitter and Facebook!

    My luxury item this leg is my Lifeventure collapsible umbrella, seriously, it can rain over here! Insect repellent is a must not a luxury! My sleeping mat can double as a yoga mat!

    Still not much sleep for me. I was thinking, how many flights have I been on so far on the expedition? Might work that out. We had dinner on the beach last night, amazing…would have been better with a bird, ha ha!

    Speak to you tomorrow, a day of sleeping ahead now after breakfast.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 87 - Tuesday 8th Mar 2011

    It looks as if the weather is too bad to fly today, been raining - and I mean raining!! All day/night. So were waiting until tomorrow now to fly to Sugapa. Mega hot and humid, but we are in a pretty nice hotel, so no drama and I get to catch up on some sleep!

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 89 - Thursday 10th Mar 2011

    Hi Guys.

    Sorry for the delay. Getting reception on my sat phone here has been tricky as we have so much cover with the jungle.

    It’s been a pretty tough few days. After my day resting in the hotel we got a flight to Ilaga on the 9th (We are 9 hours ahead of you so it is currently Friday 11th here now) which was basically a concrete landing strip on the side of the jungle. We then had a few hours trek and then stayed at a Papua Family’s home for the evening. We had a warm welcome and stayed with the chief of the village and his family in their home which is like a basic wooden house and had rice and chicken for dinner.

    We also saw some of the villages preparing fires for a traditional Papua burial ceremony for someone who had passed away, which was interesting.

    The next morning after sweet potatoes for breakfast the chief of the village hosted a big discussion where our porters were selected for our climb. He chose porters from each of the tribes for the mountain so we can cross tribal boundaries easily. There was a big debate about who would go from what tribe, which was fascinating to watch.

    That took about an hour and then we had a full 8-hour trek in really tough conditions. Physically it was one of the toughest days I have had so far on the challenge.

    The terrain is a mixture of beaten tracks and areas where you have to force your way through but it’s pretty uncomfortable all day…hot, humid and uncontrollable sweating. There’s lots of bugs and because of the rain we are climbing through well, mud really, which is shin deep so physically every step has added resistance. We climbed 1300m so it was a tough day. Then there’s the rain! Everything is soaking wet. We arrived in camp before 4pm with about an hour of sun left, washed ourselves and all of our clothes in the stream as everything is wet and soaked in mud. So by the time morning comes around our gear isn’t dry in time so we are all putting on damp and wet clothes. It’s path of the course really here and we’ll have this pretty much until we get home!

    Of course it is awesome just being in a place like this, it’s amazing but so far really uncomfortable and pretty grim! This is nothing like Welsh rain, not even Manchester rain, it’s next level!!

    We are at camp 1 now which is 3470m, the guys are just getting ready after breakfast and then we set off again soon.

    Speak soon guys!

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 90 - Friday 11th Mar 2011

    Hi Guys, its breakfast time again. At 3450m, yesterday was another full 8-hour day across the plateau and exposed rocks. It was nice to finally get out in to the open a little after trekking through dense jungle. We had little rain too which was great and managed to stay dry. Height wise we haven’t moved much higher, there has been a lot of up and down but we have made good ground and now only a few days away from base camp.

    Last night we set up camp next to a stream, which was great so we could wash. Our porters slept in a cave where they normally bury the dead about 100m above us.

    Got about another 3 days of similar terrain across the plateau until base camp. Feeling good today. Crazy to hear about the earthquake and Tsunami. So far the news is good and no signs of West Papua being affected despite a Tsunami warning.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 91 - Saturday 12th Mar 2011

    Yesterday (Sat 12th, it’s the morning of Sun 13th now) was another really long, tough day, over 8 hours. We had one of the guides leave us and turn back as he is unwell with Malaria. We are on open meadows now and we had to cross 5 rivers yesterday, which was tough going. Some you could walk over rocks and stones or negotiate a route, others we had to take off boots and gear and wade through. At midday one of our porters went on strike, notched up a fire and renegotiated his rates before carrying on! Our Indonesian head guide manages the guys really well and the issue was resolved pretty quickly but that was quite bizarre!

    The weather has not been too bad at all but the problem of wet clothes is still pretty savage. The problem is we are climbing and trekking for such long days we are in camp when there is little sun so we don’t have enough time to dry our gear. After yesterday’s walk my stuff was absolutely buzzing and soaking wet so I decided to try and dry my boots by the campfire except I have melted a hole in them! So that’s one down jacket, one pair of gloves and now my boots I have burned in recent months! I have now been banned from getting too near the fire!! I have plugged the hole with glue and duct tape so today will be interesting to see if they remain waterproof, seriously I am miffed, can’t believe I have a hole in my boots!

    We trekked to 3705m yesterday. Another hard 8/9 hour day today, setting off shortly and then tomorrow we should be at base camp. We could potentially summit the day after.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 92 - Sunday 13th Mar 2011

    Morning guys, it’s Monday morning here. Yesterday was the longest and toughest day by far, just over 10 hrs of pretty tough trekking, wading through shin deep swamps and rivers and finally a bit of scrambling at the end to get to camp. We are at 3645m.

    We had another Porters strike, a pretty serious one. In the end we had to negotiate another pay rise in order for the Porters to continue.

    We are now at the base of the mountain range. From now on we start to scramble and climb up to base camp tonight.

    Yesterday on route one of the local Papuan kids had a slingshot, I wondered what he was going to do with it and then we saw him put a little rock in it and kill a bird. Then he ripped the wings off the bird and they had it for tea last night, which was pretty wild. We have also got a dog which has been following us all the way from Ilaga, its mad that it’s got this far, it’s a little black mix, not sure how high he’s gonna get! Will be pretty interesting! Speak to you all soon from base camp.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 93 - Monday 14th Mar 2011

    Hi Guys, it's Mon 14th 10.02am UK time, 7.02pm local time here. Arrived at base camp today. Had a 7 hour scramble in heavy rain. Pretty tough. Leaving at 2am tonight for Summit. We are at 4270m. The weather was so bad today that I still haven’t actually seen Carstensz yet! Hopefully next time we speak it will be from the summit! Night guys.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 94 - Tuesday 15th Mar 2011

    Update from Rich at 6.05am UK time, 3.05pm local time. Summit aborted due to heavy rain and snow. It has rained for 2 days now. Pushing for summit tonight whatever as time is vital.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 94 - Tuesday 15th Mar 2011

    RICHARD REACHES THE SUMMIT OF CARSTENSZ PYRAMID!

    Richard reaches the summit of 4,884m/16,023ft Carstensz Pyramid at 8.28am local time on Wednesday 16th March, 11.28pm on Tuesday 15th March UK time, completing his trek and climb in 7 days. Read our news article for more info.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 96 - Thursday 17th Mar 2011

    Hi Guys. At camp 4, 3745m. I am physically and mentally beat up! It has rained solid for 4 days without opportunity to dry anything. Really tough to keep gear and me dry. The moisture has killed my cameras too. We have about a 90k trek out in 3 days. Rich.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 97 - Friday 18th Mar 2011

    At 3800m at camp. It’s absolutely chucking it down with rain, pretty standard really! We had a 9 hour day today and are aiming to get back in 4 days so are adding the hours on and having long days to get back in good time. Tomorrow will be a similar 9/10 hour day. There has been so much rain that some of the rivers are quite high now so we have had to take our trousers off and wade through rivers that are now waist high. The Carstensz casualty list is ever growing! The list of casualties so far are as follows; 1 pair of boots, 1 pair of gloves, 2 pairs of socks, 3 cameras including video camera, a jacket, a pair of trousers, my Scarpa trainers, a trekking pole and part of my sanity! Speak soon, Rich.

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 99 - Sunday 20th Mar 2011

    Back at the chiefs house in ilaga. 2 tough days of trekking out, 2535m. I hate the jungle. Flying tomorrow to Timika. I am 85kg and have lost 9kg. Got split from the group in jungle today, I had to trail find by following fresh footprints!

  • 737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 100 - Monday 21st Mar 2011

    Hi Guys. Just got back to the hotel in Timika. We left the chief’s house at 4.30am this morning and caught the twin otter at 8am. First the breakfast buffet to try and put some weight back on! Then the pool to wash, as our room isn't ready till noon! Feeling a little beat up, but really looking forward to hooking up with Steve (Williams) and cracking on! Really enjoyed this leg and it was my first real test where it asked some serious questions, it was tough but totally awesome.

    One of the guys went for a wee last night in the chief’s house and walked in on a group of Papuans around a big pot downstairs with some sort of animal in it! Seriously! After hearing that, I was happy to have my pee bottle! Ha! oh yeah, I had my clothes and boots stolen last night! Trousers, top, pants, socks (my last good pair!) and boots. All my wet gear from the trek back! Luckily I had another pair of trousers and my Scarpa approach shoes! The Indonesian people are really lush and it was a privilege to get a small insight into their culture. What an awesome leg of my challenge. I am really excited about the North Pole next as well.

Older Blog Posts

737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 99 - Sunday 20th Mar 2011

Back at the chiefs house in ilaga. 2 tough days of trekking out, 2535m. I hate the jungle. Flying tomorrow to Timika. I am 85kg and have lost 9kg. Got split from the group in jungle today, I had to trail find by following fresh footprints!

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737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 97 - Friday 18th Mar 2011

At 3800m at camp. It’s absolutely chucking it down with rain, pretty standard really! We had a 9 hour day today and are aiming to get back in 4 days so are adding the hours on and having long days to get back in good time. Tomorrow will be a similar…

read more »

737 Leg 5 Carstensz Pyramid - Day 96 - Thursday 17th Mar 2011

Hi Guys. At camp 4, 3745m. I am physically and mentally beat up! It has rained solid for 4 days without opportunity to dry anything. Really tough to keep gear and me dry. The moisture has killed my cameras too. We have about a 90k trek out in 3…

read more »

Rising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papua in Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive and mysterious of the 7 Summits.

Despite having the lowest summit altitude, this is the most technically challenging of the 7 Summits. Its remoteness, combined with government restrictions, political instability in the region and frequent tribal wars has meant that few people have climbed it since the first ascent in 1962.

The climb itself follows a direct route up slabs and corners on the north face of the mountain to reach the summit ridge. Richard needed to utilize his climbing skills on this extremely technical terrain, which involved some difficult scrambling, rock climbing and abseiling over many parts of the mountain as well as a tricky Tyrolean traverse across the summit ridge. Carstensz is one of the very few mountains in the world where this traverse is in operation.

It is undoubtedly an adventurous, exciting and uncertain mountain to climb. This is adventure travel at its wildest.

Fact 1

Carstensz Pyramid is also known as Puncak Jaya and sometimes called Mount Carstensz.

Fact 2

West Papua contains over 600 species of birds, with crocodiles, snakes, anteaters, butterflies, tree kangaroos, wallabies and other typically Australasian species.

Fact 3

The mountain’s primitive Dani people are related to the Australian Aborigines, the Papuans and the Polynesians.

Fact 4

Only a few hundred people have climbed Carstensz due to the political instability and the fact that it is hidden in dense jungle.

Fact 5

It is the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes, and the highest island peak in the world.

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Carstensz Pyramid in pictures

29th March 2011

Leg 5 of the 737 Challenge represented a demanding physical and mental test for Richard Parks but he successfully completed the most adventurous climb of the 7 summits in just 7 da…

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